THE DOOR TO ITALY
DESIGNED AROUND THE LOVEABLE STORY OF PINOCCHIO, THIS CHARMING ITALIAN BISTRO IS TEEMING WITH CHARACTER AND CULTURE. MEANING “BEAUTIFUL DOOR”, PORTABELLA IS CELEBRATED FOR ITS STYLISH ITALIAN CUISINE AMIDST A PLAYFUL AND FRIENDLY ENVIRONMENT.
From traditional Italian appetizers, soups and pastas, to wood-fired pizzas, rich meats and fantastically imaginative desserts, the Italian Executive Chef, Vittorio Negri, uses an innovative cooking approach to rekindle the tastes of Italy, opening the culinary door to his diners.
In 2013, Portabella is taking this “La porta a Italia” concept – or “the door to Italy” – to the next level, featuring an additional menu each month that showcases the cuisine of a particular Italian region. March and April saw typical dishes from Tuscany and Campania, with the latter being the home region of Chef Vittorio. From May onwards, guests can look forward to exploring the culinary delights of Sicily, Emilia, Veneto and Piedmont, to name just a few.
The Concept
Chef Vittorio’s vision is to serve up more than just a meal – he wants to deliver both a journey and a destination to his diners. With each regional menu, the chef guides his guests on a culinary adventure throughout the regions, introducing diners to the cultures and traditions of Italy.
Italy is made up of twenty regions, each with their own distinct characteristics. Every town and every village makes the same dish in vastly different ways, and many have their own specialty dishes that have been passed down through the generations. These cooking traditions define people’s identities, just as much as their dialects. From delicate squash-filled tortellini in Lombardy, to spaghetti tossed with salted gray mullet roe in Sardinia; specialty dishes and cooking styles vary across the nation, with each recipe having its own history. Chef Vittorio manages to capture this, with each authentic dish and regional menu bursting with Italian history – it is a cultural discovery through the palate.
Let’s Set the Scene
As I meander through the courtyard of the Fontana hotel, subtle hints of vintage Italian ornaments suggest Portabella is nearby. Rich aromas of tomato, basil and baked cheeses seal the deal, and as I step through the wood-paned door to the restaurant, my senses spring to life. Soulful smells pour from the black-and-white checkered kitchen, with classic Italian ingredients displayed above, such as plump olives, jars of olive oil and traditional balsamic vinegar.
The dining room is quaint, yet bursting with personality. Four of the wooden chairs are over 120 years old, carefully engraved with delicate hearts. Vintage Italian trinkets from the farmers markets of Italy coat the wall, each one telling an interesting story of how they were found. Reminiscent of Geppetto’s workshop, the ambiance is friendly and playful, yet raw and authentic where crude metals meet rich woods. The character of the restaurant is wonderful – and the food is even better…
The Cuisine
Visiting Portabella in April, I am lucky enough to try the regional menu from the chef’s home region – Campania. Chef Vittorio highly recommended the Zitoni pasta; a Neapolitan ragu lavished in a delicious tomato sauce, infused with garlic and parsley, and sprinkled with little cubes of soon-to-be-melted cheese. Resting above are wonderfully succulent strips of veal, wrapped in eggplant and topped with a rich tomato puree.
Campania is best known around the world for its pizza, so try the chef’s Napoletana, topped with cherry tomatoes, anchovies, black olives and oregano. The exuberant cuisine relies on sun-kissed vegetables and herbs, salty capers, dried pasta and fresh farmhouse cheeses, all of which are used in abundance throughout the menus. The beauty of Campania’s coast means the Campani are also renowned for their seafood specialties; bright and vibrantly flavored – a true ode to the sea. Try Portabella’s Grill Kitchen area where diners can select their chosen ocean treat, cooked to their preferred perfection.
Next I take a trip to Sicily for their Linguine Negra. Capturing the flavors of the sea, the linguine is served jet-black, colored from the ink of a squid and mixed with succulent and crumbly crab meat. I head North to Milan for the “Ossobuco”, where vibrant yellow saffron risotto serves as a creamy bed for a robust cross-cut braised veal shank. The meat is slightly tough, but in a rustic and hearty kind of way, complemented by the floral spices of the saffron.
No Italian feast would be complete without dessert, and Portabella knows how to finish on a sweet note. The Chocolate Temptation is exactly what it says on the tin – a tempting pyramid of Kahlua dark chocolate mousse with a hazelnut praline, standing majestically in front of an audience of fresh strawberry, orange, raspberry sauce and sprinkles of crushed hazelnut. Equally as mouthwatering is the Macha Vs. Spumone, where a neat and refreshing volcano of green tea ice cream holds a lava center of raspberry puree, decorated with passion fruit sauce, fresh strawberry and orange. From North to South, sweet to savory, Portabella has captured the best of Italy.
