A FINE ART
INVITING GUESTS ON A CULTURAL AND CULINARY ADVENTURE THROUGHOUT THE ISLAND OF THE GODS, SUKU AT CONRAD BALI INTRODUCES ITS DINERS TO BALI’S RICH AND MAGICAL HERITAGE.
Serving up a buffet-style dinner alongside live Balinese art and traditional dance performances, SUKU celebrates Bali’s fascinating culture and timeless traditions. From artists painting, sculptors sculpting and dancers dancing, twice a week diners can enjoy the talents of Bali in a theatrical and interactive environment, whilst enjoying the delectable culinary treasures of the surrounding landscapes.
Located in the heart of the Conrad resort, the alfresco SUKU restaurant serves up innovative cuisine using a delicious mix of Balinese, Indonesian and Asian flavors. With its exceptional ambiance, sublime service, and the dazzling backdrop of Nusa Dua’s stretching sands, SUKU delivers a first-class dining experience with a dynamic reflection of Bali’s culture and cuisine.
Indonesian-born Executive Chef Edy Santoso respects and values Bali’s rife produce, using only the freshest ingredients from local farmers to rekindle the flavors of Balinese dishes. Combine his passion with the creative mind of David Laval – Director of Food & Beverage and Culinary Operations – and a beautiful marriage of Balinese tradition unites with the luxuries of fine dining.
Let’s Set the Scene
It’s a tranquil, warm evening, and the sun has already fallen beneath the glittering horizon of the Indian Ocean. A faint sea breeze cools the air, capturing the crisp smell of the Conrad’s glowing lagoon pool, reminding me I’m in paradise. A serene pond is gently stirred by trickling fountains, decorated with pink and orange tropical flowers.
The ambiance is warm; intimate and spiritual, enhanced by luxurious reds and rich browns. Sultry candles glimmer atop the bold wooden tables, dressed with Balinese batiks and displaying a centerpiece of a ceremonial offering. Local craftsmen grace the borders of the dining room, some carving striking engravings into varnished woods, others painting dainty little pictures onto delicate duck eggs.
7.30pm strikes and it is time for the evening’s Balinese Legong Dance. Dramatic facial expressions and intricate finger movements are hypnotic, performed by beautiful Balinese women wearing extravagant traditional costumes. Vibrant colors are laced with opulent golds – the attention to detail is breathtaking. The glimmering headpieces resemble regal crowns, catching the reflection of theatrical flames emerging from the poolside giant urns.
Six maidens twist and twirl in front of the male instrumentalists, dancing to the bamboo flutes and gamelan percussions. The bewitching dance tells the story of the King of Lasem, who locks a maiden in his stone house. The King of Daha learns of her fate and threatens war unless she is set free, but The King of Lasem refuses, preferring to fight. The dance concludes with a bird of evil omens predicting his death… An interval calls for dinner time.
The Food
“”Authenticity is about taste. It is important to preserve the original recipes and bring out the authentic tastes. We need to identify we are in Bali,”” says Chef Edy.
I hop between the individual food stations, breathing in the sizzling smells from the “live” food kitchens, and staring wide-eyed at the colorful display of unfamiliar desserts. I manage to resist the urge to skip to the sweet stuff, so I start with the grilled satay. The plancha is outside on the terrace, and a smiling Balinese chef freshly serves me four chicken skewers. I lavish the succulent meat in peanut sauce, which is rich and creamy, with pleasant little crunches amidst a hint of spiciness.
Beside the satay grill is a whole and golden-brown pig, slowly turning on a huge spit and glistening above the embers of the glowing charcoal. It is the famous babi guling. The meat is incredibly juicy; soft, tender, and full of flavor. I return for seconds, followed by thirds. Be sure to try some of the crackling, and ask for it to be cooked extra crispy – it is simply divine.
Back inside, quaint wooden bowls cradle bite-sized tasters of authentic favorites. The serapa sampi captures the essence of Balinese flavors – a beef salad in coconut milk and a mix of spices. The ayam pelalah provides an awakening kick of chili lime dressing, doused on strips of shredded chicken – mix it with the urapan sayur; spinach and bean sprouts marinated in coconut. The satay lilit is another scrumptious highlight, presented in a small glass where a skewer of marinated minced chicken rests on a bed of lemongrass and sambal matah.
I make my way over to the “live” cooking stations, where bubbling soups, simmering noodles and spitting stir-fry are tended to by cheerful Balinese chefs. The babi kecap is one of my favorites; succulent braised pork in a sweet soy sauce. The beef rendang (braised beef in coconut curry) blew me away, and not just because of the added spice. The beef is surprisingly succulent, which is sometimes unusual for local meat. It is hearty and rustic, oozing with Balinese flavors
The sweeping spectrum of colorful desserts finally conquers my attention, and I pile my plate with a mixture of the sweet delights. Tall, short, rounded and square. Pinks, greens, browns and oranges – I don’t know where to start, so I’ll begin with my favorite: the mini chocolate bar is a creamy and crunchy tower of passion fruit, biscuit and cream. It is modern and contemporary in design, but uses only local ingredients. Another modern creation sees blueberries atop a sweet layer of icing-like palm sugar, which floats on a floral liquid made from a frangipani flower.
Then there are the all-embracing authentic Balinese sweets. From the full yet fluffy orange and green multilayered butter cake, to the kueku sticky rice ‘dumplings’ colored bright pink and filled with gooey palm sugar; the Balinese desserts are a treat for the eyes as well as the taste buds.
The Lowdown
SUKU triumphs alongside Conrad’s signature restaurant, Eight Degrees South, which teeters over the glistening Nusa Dua beach. Both restaurants have introduced the “small tastings” concept; a tropical take on traditional tapas. Created by Chef Edy and David Laval, the “small tastings” concept is designed for swapping, sharing, and exploring different flavors SUKU has certainly integrated this into the buffet dinner, but they have also introduced it into the a la carte menu, showcasing SUKU all-time favorites in delicious, bite-sized portions. Keep your eye on Conrad’s culinary calendar over the coming months, because David Laval has some big and delicious ideas in the pipeline.
